Which side bonds must be broken chemically to change the natural curl pattern of hair permanently?
- Hydrogen bonds
- Disulfide bonds
- Salt bonds
- Peptide bonds
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B. Disulfide bonds
Disulfide bonds are the strong chemical side bonds; permanent waving and relaxing work by breaking them. Hydrogen bonds are broken by water alone, which only gives a temporary change such as a wet set.
Reference: Barbering theory: chemical services (chemistry of texture services)
What does the neutralizer do in a permanent wave?
- Breaks the disulfide bonds so the hair takes the rod shape
- Swells the cuticle so the waving lotion can enter
- Rebuilds the disulfide bonds in the new curled shape
- Coats the hair to protect it from the waving lotion
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C. Rebuilds the disulfide bonds in the new curled shape
The neutralizer is an oxidizer that stops the action of the waving lotion and re-forms the disulfide bonds in their new positions around the rod. Breaking the bonds is the job of the waving lotion, the step before.
Reference: Barbering theory: chemical services (permanent waving)
During a perm, a test curl is unwound part way and the hair forms a firm, well-defined S pattern. What does that show?
- Processing is complete and the hair is ready to rinse
- Processing has only just begun and more time is required
- The hair is overprocessed and should be cut shorter
- The neutralizer was applied before the waving lotion
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A. Processing is complete and the hair is ready to rinse
A firm S-shaped wave that matches the rod size is the sign that enough bonds have been broken, so the lotion is rinsed and the hair neutralized. A weak or undefined wave would mean more processing time is needed.
Reference: Barbering theory: chemical services (permanent waving)